The sound of a drum	.
The sound of a drum. The noise of a crowd. "They're coming," the small child shouted. The procession moved on, colourful banners held high, dragons in the air, excited faces, and large drums pulled by dedicated young souls while their leader beat a rhythm for the parade. This was the Wong Tai Sin District Festival, a local event with traditional performers. Inside the stadium, youths hoisted multi-coloured flags into the air. There were dragons in red and white, acrobats on stilts, and children in bright costumes performing for the crowd. And this was a little-known festival, as far as foreign tourists are concerned. Hong Kong is alive with festivals throughout the year. Many are related to legendary events, heroes, religious days or celebrations of the lunar calendar. One of the most spectacular is the annual Bun Festival on the small island of Cheung Chau. Bamboo poles tied together form enormous towers, which are covered with hundreds of sweet pink and white buns. While the parade has lion dancers, dragons and acrobats, it is the young children who star in the show. Dressed in bright costumes, they float miraculously above the crowd. The bun towers are erected in front of the Temple of Pak Tai. God of the Sea, and King of the Underworld, Pak Tai is a Taoist deity prayed to by boat people and fishermen as a saviour against evil spirits. According to locals, once the temple was built in 1873 Cheung Chau was no longer attacked by pirates. And at the end of the Bun Festival the people eat the now-blessed buns. A nation of many islands, it's natural that Hong Kong's festivals and deities are interwoven with the sea. Another much-worshipped deity is Tin Hau, the Taoist Queen of Heaven and Goddess of the Sea, who watches over seafarers. She has temples dedicated to her throughout Hong Kong, especially in the outlying islands near fishing villages. And of course there is a festival in her honour. To celebrate her birthday fishermen decorate their boats and sail Hong Kong's waterways. There are colorful floats, lion dances, parades and festivities, while people pray for good fortune in temples around the islands. For the waters haven't always been kind. One story tells how Chinese hero Qu Yuan drowned himself in China's Mi Lo River 2000 years ago to protest against government corruption, and how the villagers raced their boats in a futile attempt to save him, slapping the water with paddles, beating their drums and throwing dumplings into the water to prevent the fish from harming the body. This is the origin of the Dragon Boat Festival, a dramatic event where crews of thirty rowers race canoe-like boats, urged on by beating drums. But in Hong Kong not everything's about festivals. There are temples and monasteries where one can experience a feeling of peace and serenity. Perhaps the most famous is the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island. Founded in 1921 as a monastic retreat, it has now become very popular with tourists and pilgrims who come from around the globe people to see the world's largest seated outdoor bronze statue of the Buddha. Standing 26 metres high, the giant Tian Tan Buddha statue sits atop a lotus throne. The walk up the 268 steps takes time, and one has the chance to appreciate not only the immensity of the statue, but also the serene outlook of the Buddha's face. The day I visited, the mist was swirling around the head of the Buddha, but rather than feeling uneasy, it made me feel the sense of calm more clearly. Tian Tan means Temple of Heaven, and that was how it felt. The statues paying homage to the Buddha seemed clearer in their purpose, silhouetted against the mist, as though life's distractions had been removed. Soon it was time to head back to the city. On my way to Wong Tai Sin's festival there was time to visit the Chi Lin Nunnery. Founded in the 1930's, the nunnery was reconstructed in the 1990's in the Tang dynasty style, but using modern technology. The Hall of Celestial Kings is designed after the 11th century Phoenix Hall outside Kyoto in Japan. Stepping inside, I found the altar surrounded by the celestial kings. The Medicine Master was attended by two golden Bodhisattvas, one representing the sunlight (symbolizing wisdom) and the other the moonlight (symbolizing compassion), wisdom and compassion being two important attributes of Buddhism. Then from peace to excitement, what a contrast the day was. I remember the faces of Wong Tai Sin's festival. The smile of triumph as the acrobats on stilts did their finale, the excited expressions of the boys as they whirled their dragons through the air, and the anticipation as the very young waited their turn to perform. With my journey coming to an end, I stopped at the Sik Sik Yuen Temple in Wong Tai Sin. Hong Kong's most popular Taoist temple is in the northern part of Kowloon and was built according to traditional Chinese principles. In the grounds of the temple are the Confucian Hall, the Good Wish garden and the Wall of the Nine Dragons, a replica of the famous mural in Beijing's Imperial Palace. People come here to learn their fortunes, to seek advice, to find what days will be most auspicious for special events, and to seek that elusive peace in this modern world. Lighting their joss sticks, making their offerings at the different altars. Would my fortune be good? I felt a sense of calm that augured well for the future. And I watched as the clouds of incense filled the air with promise for all who knelt there.
INFORMATION: Hong Kong Tourism Board website: www.DiscoverHongKong.com   IMPORTANT NOTE: This article is copyright © Bruce Holmes and may not be reproduced without his express permission. All rights reserved.