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As Greek weightlifters Pyrros Dimas and Akakios Kakiasvilis stood on the podium at the Sydney Olympics, each having won a third Olympic gold medal, all of Greece stood proudly for the singing of their national anthem "Hymn to Liberty." And in one quiet corner of Greece, maybe the statue smiled too. For there's a monument to poet Dionysios Solomos at Lofos Strani on the island of Zakynthos, where he wrote the Greek national anthem, heartfelt words from a native of the Ionian Islands where foreigners dominated for centuries. Venetian rule had a lasting influence on Zakynthos' architecture, evident in the churches where bell towers are separate from the main buildings, in the castle, and in the square of San Marcos. However, most holiday-makers head to Zakynthos for beautiful sandy beaches and emerald green water. Island-hopping by car ferry, we saw mountainous Kefalonia on the horizon and wondered how Lord Byron felt arriving at Argostoli in 1823 in a bid to help the Greeks achieve independence. The islands were then ruled by Britain and weren't ceded to the Greek state until 1864. The Citadel of St George remains, but only colourful umbrellas stand sentry on Long Beach. Near the port of Sami is Antissamis Bay, setting for the film Captain Corelli's Mandolin where Nazi brutality against the locals and surrendering Italians reminded us that peace comes at a price. Feeling the cool water and watching sunlight play upon the shades of blue and green it wasn't hard to think that when Nicholas Cage as Corelli said: "I have always found something in life worth singing about," he might have been referring to Kefalonia. To the north is Mirtos Beach, one of the most beautiful in the Mediterranean, and Fiscardo, a traditional village where fishing boats are reflected in the glassy water of the harbour. Sipping coffee in the sun, we contemplated what our next island would bring.  For that was Ithaca, home of Ulysses, who after leaving Troy battled tempests and strange creatures for years before seeing his own soil again. The main town Vathy's red-roofed houses created a spectacle from the hills above. Further north the view was more expansive from the bell tower of the Kathara monastery. We even stopped to watch mountain goats clamber across the rocks for this is a quiet traditional island, ideal for escaping the city chaos and tourist crowds. In the north are the typical fishing villages Kioni and Frikes, where we strolled along deserted beaches and relaxed in a café by the harbour. Near Frikes a roadside monument remembered World War 2 heroes of the guerilla resistance. A place of peace and beauty for us, built on a past of violent struggle. Opinions differ about where the ancient Homeric city was located, and into which cave the Phaeacians laid the sleeping hero on his return. Some scholars maintain the city was located near Stavros, where archaeologists excavated the Cave of Loizos in the 1930's, and where tripods similar to those given to Ulysses were found. The village of Stavros features a bust of Ulysses. Walking through an ancient olive grove toward the cave a sudden thunderstorm made me move quickly to shelter. The violence of the elements and feeling of isolation convinced me that Loizos' Cave was where Ulysses arrived home. Then it was time for another ferry to the port of Vassiliki, for our brief stop in Lefkada. Renowned for windsurfing, Vassiliki has seen a growth in tourism but still enjoys a relaxed ambience. Not far from the village we saw traditional sights like the woman urging her donkey, and the old couple in the rowing boat putting out their fishing nets as they'd always done in the Bay of Vlychos. Lefkada is an island of contrasts, from white beaches to mountain villages and the wetland lagoon that is home to migratory birds. It is joined to mainland Greece by a floating bridge near the 14th century Frankish castle of Santa Maura. But no longer do the keepers of the castle have to close the road to enemies or pirates. That night we strolled along narrow cobbled streets to a traditional taverna where we enjoyed the famous local seafood. On our tour of the Ionians only Corfu remained, but as it was further north than the others we flew from Athens. The island has beautiful beaches, one of the best being Paleokastritsa, a sheltered cove where clear blue water sparkles in the sunlight. When the shipwrecked Ulysses awoke in the land of the Phaeacians to hear the voice of the princess, it is said to have been either at this cove or Hermones further south. Corfu was of strategic importance as it commanded the sea routes from east to west, and the Byzantine fortress of Angelokastro north of Paleokastritsa thus provides visitors with a spectacular view of the coastline. The town of Corfu has its Old Fort that dominated the harbour entry during Venetian rule from 1386-1797, and then under the British. Now it allows the weary tourist a respite from the crowds. The Venetian influence can be seen in Corfu's wide squares and narrow streets, while the church of its patron saint St Spiridon dominates the skyline. And if you want to find that most photographed of scenes, the Vlacherna Monastery at the end of the causeway, it's at the nearby village of Kanoni. Our last night on Corfu was spent at the restaurant Tripa in the village of Kynopiastes where we ate heartily before being entertained by dancers in the costume of the island. As the music played and people laughed, I realized how lucky we are that these beautiful Ionian Islands are now places of peace and hearty Greek hospitality, having endured so much throughout a history under many conquerors. It seemed fitting that a son of these islands had written the words of the National Anthem, sensing their freedom at last: "From the graves of our slain Shall thy valour prevail As we greet thee again- Hail, Liberty! Hail!"
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FACT FILE:
Tourist Information:
Greek National Tourism Organization: www.eot.gr
Ionian Islands Tourism: www.ionianislands.gr/index_uk.htm
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