In step with the Roman legions	.
Places aren't always what you expect. I'd come to see the magnificent Roman ruin that is Hadrian's Wall, and here I was inspecting the toilets. With enthusiasm, what's more. But these are superbly preserved Roman latrines with a flush system, and they're nearly two thousand years old. They even had modern conveniences, wooden benches to sit on, as evidenced by the holes in the stonework on either side. This is Housesteads Fort, the most visited site in the Hadrian's Wall area, which was built by the Second Legion, comprising mainly auxiliary troops from Germanic tribes. I was lucky that Andrew Poad, National Trust Manager of the site, was available to answer questions. Pointing to the model of an auxiliary trooper in the small museum, he indicated that the man was dressed in mainly Celtic garb, only his sword and helmet being Roman. Joining the Roman legion made sense. Apart from a pay packet, anyone lasting 25 years became a Roman citizen and retired on a pension. But what about the Wall, I wondered. People often think it was built to keep out warring northern tribes. In fact the idea was to show off the might and extent of the empire. Andrew explained that the Emperor Hadrian was much taken with Greek culture and building an impressive stone wall was a very Greek thing to do. Hadrian visited Britain in 122AD, and over the next six years soldiers constructed a wall 80 Roman miles long (117km or 73 modern miles) from one side of Britain to the other. Popular with walkers, the new National Trail was opened in 2003, enabling those who are keen enough to follow the remains of the wall across the countryside. A fitting way to experience this World Heritage-listed remnant of the glory of Rome. It should be pointed out that walkers' paths are beside the wall because tramping on top of it causes erosion. The only exception is a segment near Housesteads Fort, used by walkers since the 19th century. From this point looking east one can see Sewingshields Crags, supposedly where King Arthur and his knights lie sleeping, awaiting England's call to arms once more. Walking west from the fort toward Steel Rigg, there were sweeping views of the English countryside to Broomlee Lough, and the hills known as Cuddy's Crags rose from the landscape in front of us. Along the way was Milecastle number 37. Yes there was a manned post every mile, and this one is the highest piece of the original Roman wall with its facing stones still intact. The wall is only about two-thirds of the height it once was, because prior to the 20th century concept of preserving our heritage, mankind figured that the stones could be better used in homes and churches, and simply carried them away. The path we'd taken forms part of a designated walk from Housesteads Fort to Steel Rigg and on to Vindolanda Fort. Trail Development Officers have put together a series of walks in the area around Hadrian's Wall, maps and directions for which can be purchased by intending hikers. Walking tourists are well catered for in the region. The Hadrian's Wall Bus not only connects Carlisle to Hexham via Haltwhistle, but also takes visitors to the various spots of interest along the wall, including the forts. Get off and walk to the next stop, that's the idea! The other major fort of interest is Vindolanda, an old frontier fort which housed a garrison of 500 troops some fifty years before Hadrian's Wall was built. A very significant site, Vindolanda's excavation has been going on for eighty years, unearthing 400 roundhouses apparently built to hold important hostages. The best find in the last year or so, according to archaeologist Andy Birley, has been the large military bath house for 1000 men. They even know its construction was begun by a group of 18 men with Vitalis in charge. The ongoing dig is very public-oriented. The fence is never more than five metres from the dig itself and people like Andy are always available to answer questions about their progress. Vindolanda's museum displays artifacts found on the site such as keys, measuring weights, brooches, coins, pottery and even leather shoes. There are clay tablets with footprints of dogs, cats and deer, who stepped in the then-wet clay. But the 1400 original documents are what really bring that everyday Roman world to life. There's an inventory of sox and underpants in a parcel sent from home (mum always did look after him), and a letter from the commanding officer to his lord asking that beer be sent for his thirsty troops.
FACT FILE: Further Information: www.hadrians-wall.org (how to get there, information about walking) www.hadrianswallcountry.org www.vindolanda.com www.cumbria-the-lake-district.co.uk www.visitnorthumbria.com www.visitbritain.com    IMPORTANT NOTE:   This article is copyright © Bruce Holmes   and may not be reproduced without his express permission.   All rights reserved.